Turkey’s Islamic Democracy, Contrast and Harmony

Earlier this summer, while we were in Turkey, an alleged Coup d'etat against the regime was unfolded, US consulate in Istanbul was attacked, 3 German mountain climbers were kidnapped in Eastern Turkey, and Turkish supreme court was contemplating the banning of the country's ruling Party. None of these, however, seemed to have much perceptible effect on the mood of the crowds having dinner in the alleys off Istiklal Caddesi, or bikini clad ladies sunbathing in the fashionable resort of Turkbuku. Perhaps, Turkey is used to fundamental changes and social, religious, and political upheavals. After all its four thousand years of history is full of such changes: from Hittites to independent city states, to a Persian Satrapy, to Alexandrian Rule, to a Roman Province, to a Christian Byzantium Empire (the first such empire), to an Islamic Ottoman Empire, and finally to a "secular" Republic under Attaturk. The recent history has also been a see-saw between a secular elitist ruling class and a majority moderate Islamic populace. One walk on Istiklal Caddesi in Istanbul demonstrates the full spectrum of religious observance. The street features women in full overcoat and scarf, fashionable young ones in jean and clingy designer T-shirts, and middle ground represented by strikingly good looking girls in stylish pants and tunics and full make up with scarves fastened in an elaborate style of a turban or hat. What is evident, however, is that Turkish Islam is not aggressive. It is tolerant and moderate, at least in Istanbul and the Western Turkey. Walking in the back streets of Sultan-Ahmet, where the majority of women are covered, a woman in western clothing and without head cover, is not met with angry and disdained looks that would have been rampant in Cairo. The shop owners in the traditional green grocers or small out of town farmers Markets do look an uncovered woman in the eye and are comfortable dealing with her. May be it is the lessons of Mevlana, that promotes tolerance, or the mild weather, or the location of the country as the bridge between East and West. Whatever it is, Turkey is determined not to become another Iran.

In a country where the Call to prayer (Azan) can be heard simultaneously and harmoniously with westerns and Turkish pop music and Jazz, it may be (just may be, mind you), be possible to achieve an Islamic democracy. That would be a victory for all moderate, freedom loving Moslems anywhere.